As the tenth consistory of Pope Francis, to be celebrated on December 7, approaches, the storefront of the most famous ecclesial tailor shop in Rome turns red.
The location looks like a holdover from another era, hidden away in Piazza di Santa Chiara, just a few steps behind the Pantheon.
The name “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” is well known to clergy throughout Italy and the world.
In 2000, the shop was included in the list of Rome's Historical Shops and is probably the oldest Roman craft enterprise still run by direct descendants of the founder.
The sixth generation of the Gammarelli family who now holds the reins of the family business is very proud of this.
Alessia Gammarelli is the sixth generation owner and the first woman to head the family company along with two cousins, Massimiliano and Lorenzo. And it was she who designed the storefront this way for the upcoming Vatican celebrations.
“It's a bit of a historical window display, because not all of these items are still used today. Obviously the black cassock and the cope yes, the sash yes, the cross as well. But this entire set of vestments, and the mantle, are not really used anymore,” Alessia explained.
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:f \
"And you said that the fabrics are a bit antique."
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annibale Gammarelli” owner:
“Yes, we only use this vestment for the window display with vestments for Cardinals, so it's a little antiquated.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
"There are several items here, including the shoes. I am curious if they’re still in use today."
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annibale Gammarelli” owner:
“Very rarely. This color is used very rarely. The sashes, yes, the socks, yes. And the biretta, perhaps because it is only worn on the day of the appointment.”
Among others, there is one element of design that must never be missing. “The Holy Father's zucchetto, which we always keep in all our window displays as a distinguishing staple piece,” Alessia noted.
Established in 1798 by the patriarch of the family, Giovanni Antonio Gammarelli, the tailor shop was founded during the pontificate of Pius VI and promptly began serving the Roman clergy. The family has provided exclusive service to the last eight popes starting with Pius XI, and now has the honor to prepare vestments for Pope Francis.
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
"This Pope leads a simple life, including in how he dresses. But does he still use your tailoring for his white garments that he wears daily?"
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“Yes, yes, always.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
“Do you visit him to take his measurements?”
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“They place an order, give us the measurements, and we make the clothes.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
"How long does it take to create a garment like this?"
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“It takes about a week to prepare a vestment.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
"Is there a special fabric reserved for the Pope?”
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“The colors are obviously special. And regarding the fabrics, they are all of very good quality, all pure wool and so on. So obviously the vestments for the Pope are made with great care, although the other ones are made equally well.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
“Do you also craft his headwear?”
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“Yes, and there are often people who come wanting to buy a ‘zucchetto’ to give to the Holy Father. I don't know if you know about this. They buy it from us, we put it in a nice little box, and then they give it to the Pope, hoping to exchange it for his.”
The special privilege of the historic tailor family concerns the election of a new pope.
During each conclave the Gammerellis are charged with making three white cassocks in different sizes – small, medium and large – which sit ready waiting for the new Successor of Peter.
Inside the shop that seems a real treasury of past centuries, throughout the two small rooms, portraits of past Pontiffs hang or are propped on tables and cabinets.
Along the walls, floor-to-ceiling shelves house bolts of fabrics – cottons and silks in rich red and purple, and ornate brocades shot through with metallic threads, almost all still produced in Italy.
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“We have a lot of fabrics here, almost all pure silk. And they all come from Italian fabrics. Some of them come from Spain, but 90 percent of them are Italian and we use them to make sacred vestments.
“From vestments to shoes, hats, and accessories, all the garments are hand-made with the same, scrupulous attention to detail. Over time, the garments have vested thousands of priests as well as bishops and cardinals of the Church.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
"I notice silver here, and some are gold-colored...”
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“In silver, there’s nothing in gold here, only silver, gold-plated silver.”
On average, ten projects are produced every week and just fifteen people work in the Gammarelli company, all of them exclusively artisans.
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“It remains a small, artisanal business to this day. We make all of these garments right here in our workshop, including all the sacred vestments, which we cut and sew ourselves. We strive to carry on this beautiful tradition. It’s not easy, but we do our best to keep it alive.”
Magdalena Wolinska-Riedi — EWTN Vatican Bureau Correspondent:
“Why is it not easy? Is there no competition, that makes the choice easier?”
Alessia Gammarelli — “Ditta Annnibale Gammarelli” owner:
“It’s difficult to find skilled artisans who continue to do this kind of work. It’s especially challenging to find good tailors and talented craftsmen.”
Now, the Gammarelli family, who have had the honor of serving every pope of the past century, look forward to passing the baton to the next generation, ensuring that their legacy continues and shapes history for years to come.
Adapted by Jacob Stein
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Born in Warsaw, Poland, in 1979, she is a linguist, translator, producer, writer, journalist, and a long-time foreign correspondent for Polish National Television TVP in Rome and the Vatican. She holds a master's degree from the University of Warsaw, doctoral studies from the Gregorian University in Rome, and post-master studies from the Diplomatic Academy in Warsaw. For 10 years, she was a translator for the Tribunal of the Roman Rota and the Apostolic Signature in the Vatican. She has produced over 20 documentaries about the Vatican and the papacy and authored four bestsellers about the Vatican and Rome. As the wife of a Pontifical Swiss Guard member, she lived for over 16 years in Vatican City, a neighbor to the last three popes. She is the mother of two teenage daughters and has been the EWTN Vatican correspondent in Rome since May 2024.
